Our trip to dog-friendly Milan did not start the way I planned. We landed at Malpensa, debated the taxi versus the train, decided the journey time was roughly the same either way, and got on the train. One hour later, we stepped off at Milano Centrale and my friend realised her bag had been taken from the luggage rack while we were travelling. It had been lifted so cleanly that none of us had noticed. Welcome to Milan.
I’m telling you this upfront because it sets the tone for the honest version of this guide. Milan is a beautiful, dog-friendly city with a genuinely brilliant canal district, great food, and a hotel that upgraded us on arrival because we had Daisy. It also has a pickpocket problem that is no joke. We had one full day of rain, the bag theft happened on day one, and I came home saying once is enough. Daisy, for her part, had the time of her life. Here’s everything you need to know if you’re planning to visit Milan with your dog.
Getting to Dog-Friendly Milan with Your Dog
Let me save you the mistake we made. The Malpensa Express train into the city takes just over an hour and costs around €15 to €20. The taxi from the airport costs €110 to €140 and takes roughly the same time door to door. The train feels like the obvious choice on paper. It is not.
The issue is the luggage racks. They are separate from your seat, out of your direct sightline, and bags get taken. My friend’s bag was lifted on the journey. We didn’t notice until we arrived. If this does happen to you, other passengers on the train were brilliant and immediately told us to photograph the train number and carriage details, since there are cameras on board. Keep that in mind. The customer service desk at Milano Centrale was not particularly helpful. We were eventually directed to the police station inside the station, which took about an hour to process a report. It’s unlikely anything will come of it, but you need the report for insurance purposes. Go straight there rather than spending time at the customer service desk.
The taxi is a flat rate and the driver loads your bags. For anyone travelling with a dog and all the kit that comes with it, that peace of mind is worth the extra cost. Take the taxi.
For flying to Milan with your dog, we used Aegean Airlines and the airport experience at Malpensa on the way home was genuinely one of the best moments of the trip. There’s a solo traveller security lane that I got directed into. Nobody in it. Private security. Staff who spent the whole process fussing over Daisy. A solid 10 out of 10. The airport also has a high-end dog accessories shop airside, worth a browse even if you don’t buy anything. Food options near the gate are more limited though. There’s a Wagamama and some sandwich counters, and I had to pay €2.50 just for a seat, which felt a bit much. Eat before you go through security if you can.
Daisy travelled in her sling carrier throughout the trip. This is the one I use for European city breaks and it works perfectly for everything from airport security to restaurant floors. I buy all of Daisy’s travel pieces on Temu and this carrier has been on every trip with us.
Where to Stay in Milan with Your Dog
We stayed at Hotel Dei Cavalieri Milan, right in the heart of the city, and it was the best part of the trip. I’ve written a full review here – Hotel Dei Cavalieri Milan review, but the short version is this: Paolo at reception was so excited to see Daisy that he upgraded our room on the spot to give her space to run around. When we arrived shaken after the bag theft, he was waiting with a box of little Napoletane chocolates to cheer us up. That is the kind of human touch that no five-star rating system captures.
Daisy was welcome at breakfast every morning, at the bar, and throughout the hotel. We were given a special table at breakfast each day with extra space for her. The beds are exceptional. The rooftop bar is worth booking ahead for, more on that below. For location, comfort, and genuine dog-friendliness, this hotel is hard to beat. Rating: 9 out of 10.
What to See in Milan with Your Dog
Before I get into this, one strong recommendation: download the GPS My City app before you go. It has several self-guided walking tours of Milan that work offline, so no data needed while you’re out. The City Introduction walk covers 11 sights over about two hours and 4km. The Historic Centre walk is tighter at 2.5km and 13 sights. Both are free to download and really well put together. We used it throughout the trip and it genuinely adds a lot to the experience, especially for spotting things you’d otherwise walk straight past. Download it at gpsmycity.com.
The Duomo
We went to the Duomo three times and it was different on every visit. Friday night just after midnight, it was quiet, lit up, and properly atmospheric. We were the only people not in a rush. Saturday in the rain it felt cold and a bit grey. Sunday in the sunshine it was completely transformed. Daisy collected about fifteen new fans in the square that morning.
One thing worth knowing: there are people in the square offering bags of seeds for you to feed and pose with the pigeons. It’s not an official service, just locals who will charge you a few euro for the seeds and the experience. We saw people absolutely covered in pigeons getting photos taken and it looked like great fun. Just know what you’re signing up for before you accept the seeds.
The Duomo itself is dogs outside only, which is expected. But the square, the steps, and the surrounding streets are fine with a dog in a carrier or on a lead.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Go on a Friday or Saturday night if you can. We went just after midnight on Friday when the city was quiet and the Galleria was nearly empty. It was one of the best decisions of the trip. Daisy spun on the famous mosaic bull for good luck with barely another person around. The same space on Saturday afternoon was genuinely insane with crowds. The architecture is beautiful and it’s worth seeing, but the timing makes a huge difference.
Castello Sforzesco
About a twenty-minute walk from the Duomo, Castello Sforzesco is one of those things you should put on the list but can be flexible about timing because it’s largely covered. We went on the rainy Saturday and it was totally manageable. The courtyards, the architecture, and the staircases are genuinely lovely for photos. You can feel the history in it.
For dogs: small dogs can be carried through the indoor sections. Daisy went through in her bag without any issue. Larger dogs would be restricted to the outdoor areas. It’s worth seeing and it won’t ruin your day in bad weather, but the sunshine version would be better for photos.
Piazza Mercanti
Walk through this on your way between the Duomo area and the Navigli and you’ll understand why Milan has been a trading city for centuries. It’s a medieval square tucked just off the main tourist drag, completely different in character to the grand Duomo piazza nearby. The GPS My City app gives you the full history as you walk through. On Sunday there was life there, people having coffee, locals cutting through. Daisy got good photos in the archways. It’s not the destination, it’s a great stop on the way.
Navigli Grande and the Canal District
This is the part of Milan I’d actually go back for. When the sun came out on Sunday and we walked down to the Navigli Grande, the whole trip shifted. The canal district feels like a completely different city. The streets are lined with restaurants and bars at every hour, the prices drop to something reasonable the moment you leave the tourist centre, and the energy is relaxed in a way the rest of Milan isn’t.
Drinks that were €22 at the Aperol bar near the Duomo were €8 to €12 down here. Daisy was completely at home. Dogs were walking along the canal everywhere, nobody batted an eye. If I were going back to Milan, I’d stay in this neighbourhood rather than the centre and spend most of my time here.
Dog-Friendly Restaurants and Bars in Milan
Here’s my honest take: the food in Milan is good but I wouldn’t say any of the places we ate, beyond the pastry shop, were destination level. You’ll find good food easily once you’re out walking. For most meals, just pick somewhere that looks good on the day. The places below are the ones with a specific reason to go.
Bar Duomo
Right on the corner looking over the Duomo square. We went on Friday night and got pizza and wine while the square was coming to life. The food is solid, the drinks are overpriced, and the location is the point. Outdoor seating means cigarette smoke from other tables is part of the deal, which is just Italy. Go once for the view and the vibe. You’ll know what you’re paying for.
Biffino
10 out of 10 and I am not even a cannoli person. We found this on Saturday afternoon and it was the right call. The cannoli were filled with vanilla custard and Daisy helped with the last of it. The biscuits with tea were also excellent. It’s a counter-service spot, affordable, and completely unpretentious. This is the one place I’d specifically go back to in Milan.
Jardìn Milano
This was the cosy stop on Saturday evening after the Aperol bar and it was exactly what we needed. A warm, hipster-feeling bar with really lovely staff, great prices, and the kind of atmosphere that feels like you’ve been let into someone’s sitting room. Wine, hot chocolate, nice cakes and biscuits. It was such a contrast to the tourist-heavy spots near the Duomo. The staff were genuinely some of the nicest people we encountered all trip. Highly recommend it.
Terrazza Aperol
Yes, it’s expensive. Yes, you should do it. €22 for a Hugo Spritz overlooking the Duomo is objectively a lot, and then they bring a complementary platter of small bites that are… fine. Mozzarella balls with tomato were the highlight. The mince-topped crackers less so. But that is not the point. The point is the view, the vibe, and the fact that it is absolutely packed with content creators and influencers getting their shots, which makes for genuinely entertaining people watching. Go once, get the photo, enjoy it for what it is.
Daisy slept in her bag the entire time, which tells you how she felt about the rain that day.
Naviglio 48
Sunday lunch on the canal and the best meal of the trip for value and atmosphere. They offered us inside seating, so this is a properly dog-friendly spot and not just outdoor tolerance. We sat outside anyway because the weather was lovely by then. Lasagna and pizza, solid food, great setting. The kind of lunch that makes a city feel like somewhere you actually want to be.
Osteria del Binari
We went on Saturday night, leaving Daisy at the hotel, where she proceeded to sleep solidly on camera the whole time, clearly exhausted from a big day. The restaurant itself is enormous, over a hundred tables, all full on a Saturday, and the atmosphere is genuinely a vibe. The food, though, I’d skip. It’s refined and inventive rather than traditional Italian, which is not what either of us were in the mood for after two days in Italy. If that style is your thing it might suit you. But I wouldn’t specifically recommend it.
Hotel Dei Cavalieri Rooftop Bar
Book ahead for this one, call or email the hotel in advance – grab contact info here. The rooftop doesn’t have Duomo views but the city lights at night are lovely and it’s a great way to end an evening. We went up on Saturday night after dinner with Daisy, had one drink, and were fairly exhausted but glad we did it. Daisy was fine up there. It’s a proper bar experience and worth factoring into the plan if you’re staying at the hotel.
Practical Tips for Visiting Milan with Your Dog
Getting around. We walked almost everything and used the metro for longer distances. Walking is genuinely the best way to see the city and most of the main sights connect logically on foot. The GPS My City app will route you efficiently between them.
Pickpockets are not exaggerated. Signs in every shop. We saw another person at the train station looking for help after something similar happened to them and not getting much. At Primark, when my friend was buying replacement items, she was inspected multiple times on the way out and treated as suspicious just for carrying her own things. Walking into Sephora with her new case caused a visible reaction from staff. It lingers with you. Keep bags in front, don’t put anything valuable in luggage racks on trains, and stay alert in crowded spaces.
Weather matters more here than most cities. We had one rain day, Saturday, and it changed the feel of the whole trip significantly. Castello Sforzesco and Jardìn Milano are your friends on a grey day. The Galleria is covered and worth ducking into. The canal district needs sunshine to really deliver.
Dogs are genuinely welcome. I never felt unwelcome with Daisy, not once. Big dogs in Primark, dogs in restaurants, dogs along the canal, dogs at the Duomo square. Milan is a practical dog-friendly city, not just a pet-tolerant one. You won’t be leaving her behind for most of what you want to do.
Pricing. The Duomo area runs at tourist prices. Everything near the canal is significantly cheaper. Plan your casual meals and drinks for Navigli and save the centre for the specific things that justify the cost.
For choosing the right airline for your dog’s next European trip, the pet-friendly flight search engine is the fastest way to compare what’s available from your airport.
Sample Milan Itinerary with Your Dog
Friday (arrival day). Land at Malpensa, take the taxi. When you get to the hotel, get settled and then head down to the Duomo area. It’s a completely different experience at night when the crowds have gone. Walk the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II while it’s quiet, spin on the bull, take the photos. The Aperol bar and the spots around it are genuinely buzzing at that hour. Pizza and wine at Bar Duomo looking at the square. This is the version of the Duomo area you want.
Saturday. If the weather is bad, lean into it rather than fighting it. Castello Sforzesco is covered and good for a wet morning. Biffino for pastries when you need a break. Aperol bar in the afternoon, Jardìn Milano when you want something quieter. If you want a proper dinner without the dog, Osteria del Binari is the vibe even if the food isn’t my recommendation. Rooftop at the hotel to finish.
Sunday. Hotel breakfast with Daisy, take your time with it. Walk from the hotel through Piazza Mercanti towards Navigli Grande. Spend the morning along the canal. Lunch at Naviglio 48. Gelato on the walk back. Leave enough time for the airport and take the taxi, not the train.
Final Thoughts on Milan with Your Dog
Milan is dog-friendly in the most practical sense. Daisy went everywhere with us, was fussed over constantly in the streets, and never caused a problem anywhere. I’m glad we went and I’d say the same to anyone considering it.
Would I go back? No. Once was the right amount. It’s expensive, it’s busy even off-season, and while the rain was only one day, it really did change the texture of the trip. The spots I’d genuinely return to are the Aperol bar for the view, Biffino for the pastries, the canal district for the whole afternoon, and the hotel rooftop for a drink at the end of the day. For everything else, you’ll find your feet as you go. The food doesn’t reach a level where I’d specifically send you somewhere over anywhere else.
If you’re a first-timer in Italy, Milan makes sense as a starting point. The Duomo is worth seeing in person. The Galleria is beautiful at midnight. The canal district is the real highlight and it alone is worth the trip. Go with your eyes open, watch your bags from the moment you land, and take the taxi from Malpensa.
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