The plan was never to go to Bolzano. We were supposed to have two nights in Venice, fly home, and call it a trip. But when the airline moved our flight and handed us an unexpected third night, we had a choice. Another day wandering the Venetian streets, or something entirely different. We picked different. And it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the whole trip.
Bolzano sits at the base of the Dolomites, about three hours north of Venice by train. It’s an Alpine town with German-speaking locals, Christmas markets that actually smell like pine and cinnamon, and a cable car that takes you straight up into the mountains. And the best part for us? The whole thing was completely doable as a Bolzano day trip from Venice with a dog.
Daisy handled the trains like a pro, was welcomed into every restaurant we walked into, and even made a new best friend on the cable car. If you’re looking for a way to break up a Venice trip with something totally unexpected, this is it. And if you haven’t read it yet, our dog-friendly Venice guide covers everything we did across our three nights in the city.
Getting from Venice to Bolzano by Train
We organised this ourselves rather than booking a tour, and it was surprisingly simple. The route is Venice to Verona, then Verona to Bolzano, with a change of trains in between.
First Class on the Venice to Verona Train
First class on the Italian train was one of the highlights of the entire trip, not just the day. We paid about €15 extra for the upgrade and it was worth every cent.
You get reclining seats, a proper table, and a quieter carriage. But the real treat is that everything is included. Water, biscuits, sandwiches, and your choice of drink. Wine, champagne, whatever you fancy. There’s no bar car and no extra payments. You just sit back and it all comes to you. Daisy sat on my lap for this leg since the seats we were in were a one-by-one configuration, but she was perfectly content. I’d rate the first class Italian train experience 10 out of 10 and I won’t be travelling any other way on this route again.
Our train departed at 08:18 and left bang on time. Italian trains don’t wait around, so give yourself at least ten minutes of buffer at the station. If you’re doing this as a day trip like we did, I wouldn’t recommend leaving Venice any later than 09:30 because you’ll seriously eat into your time in Bolzano as the last train is early evening.
The Verona to Bolzano Connection
We had about a 30-minute layover in Verona. Sounds relaxed, but here’s what you need to know. The second train was packed. Second class only, no first class option on this leg. Get to the platform early and board the moment the doors open, because seats disappear fast.
Daisy had her own seat for most of this journey. I put my coat down for her and she just chilled out, happy as anything. The train takes about an hour and 44 minutes, and this is the leg where the scenery really opens up. The first train from Venice doesn’t have much to look at, but once you’re heading into the Dolomites, it’s mountains, valleys, and wide landscapes the whole way. Don’t fall asleep on this one.
We arrived in Bolzano around 11:30 with a return train booked for 18:30 (the last train on the day we travelled). That gave us a solid seven hours, which was enough to do everything we wanted without feeling rushed. But we didn’t have a minute to spare either.
Tips for the Return Journey
The return was the reverse. Second class first, not particularly warm, and then our first class connection back to Venice. Warm carriage, champagne, sandwiches, biscuits. An absolute treat after a long day on your feet. We made sure to get to the station early for both trains because the last feasible connection back was ours, and missing it wasn’t an option.
One thing to watch out for. It was properly cold by the time we were waiting at Bolzano station in the evening. If you’re catching a later train, dress for standing around outside.
Arriving in Bolzano with a Dog
I wasn’t prepared for how cold Bolzano would feel. The weather app said 13 degrees, technically slightly warmer than Venice, but it felt so much colder. There was a breeze and a proper chill in the air that the sunshine did nothing to take the edge off as the streets were shaded. Even with the sun out, I was glad we had layers. If you’re heading up the mountain on the cable car, you’ll want your hat, gloves, and a warm jacket even if the forecast looks mild.
We started by walking through the Old Town, which is gorgeous. The arcaded streets have nothing in common with Venice. Alpine architecture, German-language shop signs, and that crisp mountain air that hits you the moment you step off the train. It felt like we’d landed in another country entirely.
Bolzano Christmas Market with a Dog
The Christmas market was our first stop, and at midday it was already heaving. I’d heard Bolzano has one of the best Christmas markets in the region, and I can see why. The stalls, the lights, the mountain backdrop. It all works together beautifully.
But here’s the reality with a small dog. Daisy couldn’t walk through it. The crowds were too dense and there was no way she could safely navigate the market on foot, so she went straight into her bag. Moments like this are why a good sling carrier comes in handy without taking up space, I just wear it all time. Pick a quality one up on Temu for ~$30 (retail $60-90). If you have a small dog, just plan on carrying them through the busier sections. It’s still a lovely experience, but it’s not one where your dog is going to be trotting alongside you.
We came back to the market in the early evening and it was like a different place. Quieter, calmer, and beautifully lit up. The stalls looked even better at night, and the atmosphere was far more relaxed. If you only have time for one visit, the evening is the better option with a dog.
The Renon Cable Car with a Dog
This was the best thing we did all day. The cable car up to the Ritten Plateau is pure magic, and it’s something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Bolzano, dog or no dog.
We bought the combi ticket at the machine. €20 for adults, €2 for Daisy. The combi ticket also includes a tram that runs along the top of the plateau, so it’s good value for what you get.
Now, there’s a sign saying dogs need a muzzle. Nobody mentioned it to us and nobody challenged us, but it’s worth knowing about. I did see a golden retriever being questioned at the ticket counter, though I didn’t see how that played out. If you have a larger breed, you might want to bring a muzzle just in case.
The cable car itself isn’t for everyone. It’s relatively small, probably fits about 20 people, and it’s fully automated with no driver. It climbs high and there’s a noticeable sway every time it passes over one of the support towers. If you’re uncomfortable with heights, this one might test you. Daisy was unbothered and spent the whole way up being hugged and kissed by a new friend she’d made in the cabin. I’m fairly sure that person was using Daisy as emotional support for their own nerves, but Daisy didn’t seem to mind.
At the top, the views were spectacular. Lightly snow-capped mountains, open sky, and a sense of space that felt a million miles from Venice. The air was noticeably colder up there, but the sunshine was strong and it felt like a proper mountain experience without needing to commit to a full day’s hike.
Where to Eat & Drink at the Top
Right beside the cable car station is Bar Café Fink, which has panoramic views over the mountains. It’s dog-friendly inside, which was great, but it was uncomfortably warm from all the glass and direct sunshine. I did try to open the doors to let some air in. The staff shut that down pretty quickly. They didn’t have wine, so we went with Hugo Spritzers, and Daisy enjoyed her leftover grilled chicken from the night before in Venice. They happily gave her a bowl of water.
There are hiking trails and a tram at the top, all included in the combi ticket, but we just walked alongside the route instead. We stopped for lunch at Antigo Pizzeria Food and Drink. Despite the name, we went for burgers and salad rather than pizza, and the food was really tasty. But honestly, you’re going for the patio. The views from that terrace are insane. Dog-friendly too. You could bring your dog inside, but sitting out there with the mountains in front of you was the obvious choice. Daisy had a well-earned nap while we ate.
Exploring Bolzano on Foot
The cable car back down was much busier than the way up, but still manageable. Once we were back in town, the afternoon was ours to wander.
The Ötzi Iceman Museum was on the route, which houses the famous 5,000-year-old mummy found in the Alps. We didn’t go in because it’s not pet-friendly, but if you’re travelling without a dog or have someone who can wait outside, people say it’s fascinating.
From there, we wandered through another local market that was separate from the main Christmas market. Much more low-key and far less crowded. Then we looped back to the Christmas market for the evening visit, which as I mentioned was far better with a dog than the midday chaos.
The day ended with wine at a local bar that had outdoor fire heaters burning away. Sitting outside with a glass of wine, wrapped up warm, watching the Christmas lights with Daisy curled up beside me. That’s one of those small moments that makes winter travel worth it.
Dog-Friendly Bolzano Restaurants
Every place we walked into in Bolzano welcomed Daisy. We only had time for two proper stops, but both delivered.
Bar Café Fink at the top of the Renon cable car is the first place you’ll see when you step off. Panoramic mountain views and dog-friendly inside, though be warned it runs very hot from the glass. Good for cocktails. They didn’t have wine when we visited.
Antigo Pizzeria Food and Drink also at the top of the plateau is where I’d actually recommend eating. The food was tastier, the patio is incredible, and there’s plenty of space for your dog. Don’t let the name limit you either. The burgers were great.
Practical Tips for a Bolzano Day Trip from Venice with a Dog
Quick reference for planning. First class Venice to Verona costs about €15 extra. Do it. The Verona to Bolzano leg is second class only. Cable car combi ticket is €20 per adult, €2 for your dog. Budget seven hours in Bolzano to cover the market, cable car, lunch, and a wander without rushing.
The Trenitalia app is your friend. Book through it, track your trains on it, and keep an eye on platform assignments. They can change.
Don’t underestimate the cold. The temperature difference between Venice and Bolzano is real, and it gets colder again at the top of the cable car. Layers, hat, gloves. Not optional.
Shops close earlier than you’d expect. If you spot something you love, don’t assume you can come back for it after dinner. You can’t.
Give yourself a full day. We had seven hours and used every minute. Any less and you’d have to choose between the cable car and a proper Christmas market visit. You want both.
Is Bolzano Worth It as a Day Trip from Venice?
Absolutely. Bolzano gave us mountains instead of canals, fresh Alpine air instead of narrow streets, and a side of Italy I wasn’t expecting at all. It’s an easy city to walk around with a dog, the public transport allows dogs without any fuss, and every restaurant we tried welcomed Daisy like she was a regular.
If you’ve got three or more nights in Venice and you’ve ticked off the main sights, a day trip to Bolzano is the perfect way to use that extra time. The first class train alone justifies the effort, and once you’re up that cable car looking out over the Dolomites with a Hugo Spritzer in hand, you won’t be thinking about Venice at all.
If you’re thinking about adding this to your next trip, browse our best dog-friendly hotels in Europe for places to stay, take our trip planning quiz for personalised recommendations, or use our pet-friendly flight search engine to find the best airline for getting you and your dog to Venice.
Bolzano wasn’t in the plan. But some of the best travel days never are.
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