A Shih Tzu’s take on Swiss Christmas markets, fondue, and finding hotels that actually welcome dogs
When I started planning our winter trip to Zurich with Daisy, I had questions. Would the Christmas markets be too crowded for a small dog? Would restaurants turn us away? Could we actually do luxury travel in Switzerland without leaving her behind?
Three days later, I had my answers. Zurich during the Christmas season is brilliant for dog parents. We found fondue restaurants that welcomed Daisy to the table, a hotel that let her roam freely through every space, and Christmas markets where strangers stopped to offer her pats between mulled wine sips. This city gets it.
Here’s what we learned.
Getting to Zurich with Your Dog
Our trip started with overnight storms delaying our flight, which actually worked out well. We arrived at the airport later than planned, and check-in was empty. We filled in Daisy’s travel form (confirming she’d be “the bestest girl” on board, which is always questionable but we signed it anyway) and walked straight through.
Security took longer than expected, but not for the usual reasons. The security officer got distracted giving Daisy belly rubs while the queue grew behind us. To anyone who missed their flight that morning: sorry, but also, you understand.
From Zurich Airport, an Uber cost about 35 Swiss Francs to the city centre. Drivers here seem used to dogs, there is an option to book Uber Pet.
Where to Stay: Sorell Boutique-Hotel Seidenhof
This hotel made our trip. Located in central Zurich, the Sorell Boutique-Hotel Seidenhof is old-school European elegance with a genuinely relaxed attitude toward dogs.
When we asked reception where Daisy could go in the hotel, they said everywhere. Not “everywhere except the restaurant” or “everywhere but please use the side entrance.” Everywhere. That kind of unrestricted welcome is rare, and it set the tone for our whole stay.
The Room
The room was compact but smartly designed. Very Swiss in that way where nothing is wasted but everything feels considered. Classic decor, quality linens, space used well.
What stood out: Daisy had a huge dog bed waiting for her (far bigger than any Shih Tzu needs, but she wasn’t complaining) plus a water bowl, while we got chocolates, fresh fruit, and a handwritten welcome note. Bathrobes, slippers, coffee and tea maker, minibar. All the touches you’d hope for.
The Winter Garden
I need to talk about the winter garden because it might have been the best part of our trip. On our second evening, we discovered the hotel has a terrace with fairy lights, open fires, and the chance to toast your own marshmallows and bread over the flames.
It sounds like something staged for Instagram, but it was real and quiet and completely lovely. My mom said she was in heaven. We sat out there for ages before dinner, just enjoying the fire and the lights and the absurdity of toasting marshmallows and baking our own bread over the fire in December in Switzerland.
Free for hotel guests. Do not skip this.
Dining at the Hotel
After our fireside marshmallows, we went inside for dinner. Daisy settled under our table with a bowl of water from the staff, who seemed genuinely happy to have her there.
The food was excellent. I had mushrooms to start, rich and earthy and cooked beautifully. Mom had beetroot and apple, just as good. But the standout was the amuse-bouche: this tiny bread thing, maybe two inches across, that somehow packed in citrus and hearty grains and a freshness I can’t explain. I stopped talking mid-sentence to appreciate it. That good.
Daisy had her kibble and treats. She gets FOMO when we’re eating out, so we always bring food for her to have alongside us. Sometimes we order for her or she shares but mushrooms and beetroot weren’t her idea of some good food. Nobody minded. If anything, the attention she got was all cooing over how cute she was.
Breakfast: An Honest Review
We tried room service one morning. Same price as the restaurant, and honestly, we were doing it for the content.
Verdict: maybe 5 out of 10. Fruit was fine. Eggs were inconsistent: one runny, one overcooked. Nothing bad, but nothing special.
The restaurant breakfast, on the other hand, was great. Daisy was welcome to join us there too, which made it easy to start the day properly. Skip the room service fantasy and head downstairs instead. 10 out of 10 just for the fact Daisy was allowed to accompany us for breakfast.
Exploring Dog-Friendly Zurich Christmas Markets
Zurich has multiple Christmas markets during the festive season, and they vary wildly in how dog-friendly they feel.
Old Town Christmas Market
We went here on our first night, tired but determined, after asking ChatGPT for recommendations. The Christmas lights were stunning. Photos don’t do them justice. Walking under them with Daisy trotting beside me felt properly festive in a way I hadn’t expected after a long travel day.
The market was quiet for a Friday evening (first Christmas weekend of the season), which made it easy with a dog. We wandered the stalls, got churros that were warm and perfectly sweet, and picked up treats for the hotel room.
Tip: This market works well for evening dog walks when crowds are lighter.
Opera House Christmas Market at Bellevue
This became our favourite. We arrived around noon on day two, and the timing was spot on. Morning clouds had cleared, the sun was out, and the crowds hadn’t built up yet.
The market sits near the lake with the Opera House behind it. We tried fudge from several stalls before settling on salted caramel and maple. Both were a solid 10 out of 10. We also got fried mushrooms with sesame and miso sauce. At around 15 CHF for four sliced mushrooms, not cheap, but tasty. Mom thought they were too rich for noon. I thought they were excellent with a cold cider in the sunshine.
Daisy loved it. New smells everywhere, friendly strangers offering pats, room to wander on her lead without being trampled. We walked past on the last evening and it was jam packed, totally recommend daytime visit with your pooch.
Zurich Main Station Christmas Market
This one needs a warning for dog parents. The indoor market at the main train station has the famous Swarovski tree (or so we thought, it’s gone, replaced with the Lindt tree).
We went around 7pm and it was uncomfortably packed. Daisy went straight into her carrier bag for safety, and even then, getting through the crowds was hard. People are literally pressed against each other. Unless you’re sitting down at one of the food stalls, there’s no space to breathe.
My advice: Go during the day if you’re bringing a dog. There’s nothing here that needs darkness to look good, and you’ll actually be able to enjoy it.
The Singing Christmas Tree
Just outside the train station area, we stumbled on what became the unexpected highlight of our whole trip. A Christmas tree structure with live singers performing carols and festive songs.
We didn’t recognise most of the songs, but they were singing in English and the atmosphere was joyful. Watching Daisy’s head tilt at the harmonies was its own entertainment. If you’re in Zurich with your dog during Christmas, find this.
The Illuminarium (Not Dog-Friendly, But Worth Knowing About)
Across from the train station, there’s a light show inside a church building called the Illuminarium. From what we could see through the windows, it looked spectacular. Not dog-friendly though, so we admired from outside.
If you’re travelling with someone who can take a turn with your pup, this seems worth doing.
Dog-Friendly Restaurants in Zurich
Finding places to eat with Daisy was easier than expected. We visited some that aren’t on the list, Daisy was allowed inside in all places we visited. Here’s the highligh of where we went.
Swiss Chuchi
For fondue, this is the spot. Located in the Old Town near the Christmas market, Swiss Chuchi does classic Swiss dishes.
We had fondue on our first night. No fuss about Daisy being with us. Exactly what you want from a Zurich fondue experience. 10/10. Super tasty, sat outside and enjoyed the fondue with bread and potatoes and of course a glass of wine.
Kiosk Restaurant at Seefeldquai
On our last morning, we walked along Seefeldquai, one of Zurich’s nicest waterfront stretches. The lake was calm and Daisy was happy with all the sniffing opportunities.
We stopped at Kiosk for tea, coffee, and wine (last day, no judgement). Relaxed setting, unhurried service, dogs clearly welcome. The kind of place where you can sit for an hour watching the lake without anyone rushing you along.
Café Conditorei Schober
After our boat trip on the final day, we needed somewhere to warm up before heading to the airport. Café Conditorei Schober was it.
This place is gorgeous, with lots of heartwarming nibbles and desserts on offer. We had lime tartlets and a cheese and ham toastie, both of which hit the spot after a chilly morning on the water. Daisy was welcomed inside without issue.
We left well fed, which turned out to be smart. Security at the airport on departure day was chaos. Eat before you go.
Lake Zurich Boat Trip with Your Dog
On our last morning, after our walk and coffee at Kiosk, we took a short boat loop around Lake Zurich. The public ferries are dog-friendly, and it’s a nice way to see the city from the water. You need to purchase a ticket for your dog.
We’d considered doing this earlier in the trip, but the first morning at the lake was cloudy and the idea of a cold boat ride wasn’t appealing. Sunday was brighter, so we went for it. You can sit inside so this wasn’t an issue. It was nice and toasty and Daisy slept through the entire trip.
The loop was short but a nice way to see the city from the water.
Practical Tips for Dog-Friendly Zurich in Winter
Getting Around
We walked most places. Zurich is easy to navigate on foot, and the Christmas market areas are all fairly central.
Dogs are allowed on public transport, including trams and buses. Larger dogs may need a half-fare ticket; small dogs in carriers usually travel free.
Uber Pet worked well for us.
Weather
December in Zurich is cold but not extreme. Layers, waterproof boots, and consider a coat for your dog if they feel the chill. Daisy was the only dog ‘naked’, she was fine but the majority of small dogs had a great fashion game.
What to Pack for Your Dog
Beyond the basics: portable water bowl for market days, high-value treats for keeping attention in crowds, a carrier bag for packed spaces, your dog’s regular food (Zurich has pet shops but familiar food prevents tummy troubles), and paw wax if your dog is sensitive to cold or salted pavements.
Restaurant Etiquette
Most places in Zurich will seat you with a dog, inside and outside.. In winter, many restaurants have heated terraces and we chose many times to eat outside.
Sample Itinerary: 3 Days in Dog-Friendly Zurich at Christmas
Day One: Arrival and Old Town
Arrive and get to your hotel. If you’re at Sorell Boutique-Hotel Seidenhof, there’ll be a dog bed and water bowl waiting in your room. Head to the Old Town Christmas market in the evening. Stop at Swiss Chuchi for fondue, grab churros from the stalls, wander the lit streets, then back to the hotel.
A note on timing: We found daytime is best for dogs at the Christmas markets. By evening the crowds pick up and it gets awkward to navigate with a dog on the ground. Most nights Daisy ended up in her carrier bag because it was just too busy.
Day Two: Markets, Views, and Fire-Toasted Marshmallows
Start slow (room service or restaurant breakfast). Walk to the lake and explore the Opera House Christmas Market at Bellevue. Try the fudge. Try the mushrooms. Continue to the viewpoint and the clock with Europe’s largest timepiece.
Find somewhere for a people-watching lunch (we had bruschetta and fries at a casual terrace). Back to the hotel for an afternoon rest, then out again around 6pm. Hit the train station Christmas market (brace for crowds), see the Swarovski tree, catch the Singing Christmas Tree performance.
End the evening at the hotel’s winter garden with marshmallows and bread over the fire, then dinner at the restaurant.
Day Three: Lake, Boat, and Final Treats
Morning walk along Seefeldquai. Stop at Kiosk for coffee, tea, or wine. Take a short boat loop around Lake Zurich. Warm up at Café Conditorei Schober with pastries and a toastie. Head to the airport early. Security will be worse than you expect.
Final Thoughts & View Our TikTok’s of Our Adventure
Zurich surprised me. I expected the Christmas markets to be beautiful and the Swiss to be efficient, but I didn’t expect such a relaxed welcome for dogs. From the security officer abandoning his post for belly rubs to the hotel setting up a dog bed fit for royalty, from fondue restaurants happily seating Daisy to quiet morning walks along the lake, this city worked for both of us.
If you’ve been putting off a European Christmas trip because you don’t want to leave your dog behind, Zurich might be your answer. The markets are beautiful, the fondue is excellent, the lake is calm, and your dog can be there for all of it.
We’ll be back.
Planning your own trip? Follow along @CrazyDaisyTravels for more dog-friendly travel guides.
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